Our 2007 Dodge Caliber had a taillight that would get foggy looking. We could see water on the inside of the taillight, that couldn't be good for the electrical connectors. I took the light out once (two black plastics "screws" inside the trunk area -then remove the three bulbs from their sockets), emptied it, dried it and looked for cracks. I couldn't find any, so I put it back int the car.
Same problem of condensation inside the lens, after the next rain. I figured I had little to loose if I caulked the taillight.
First, I made the assembly was fully dry. I used a hair dryer through the bulb holes to get all the condensation out of the taillight. I used 100% silicone bathroom caulk. A good quality sealant, that could be used to seal much tougher things.
Here is the taillight removed (shown from the back side). See the two tabs where the screws held it in.
Start a silicone bead in the upper part of the Caliber taillight assembly. I filled the channel completely, between the read lens and the black plastic back assembly.
Continue sealing around the whole outside of the tail light lens assembly.
Work around the outside putting a thin bead silicone between the red and black plastic tail light lens parts.
Just use your finger to smooth it out. I let it dry overnight and then put the taillights back on the Dodge Caliber. This saved the expensive prospect of replacing an otherwise good taillight, due to some hairline crack that wasn't even visible to the human eye.
If you see water in your Caliber's taillight, hopefully you can just drain it, dry it, and seal it like I did.
I used 100% DAP clear silicone caulk to seal my tail light assembly. It's been 6 months since I did this and the Dodge Caliber's tail light assembly hasn't been foggy or had any water in it since.
Sunday, May 29, 2011
|Our Dodge Durango heater control dashboard lights went out. One half of the push button lights didn't illuminate at night making it real hard to see what heater control switch you needed to press when it was dark out. Turns out there are regular light bulbs in the dash. |
The process to replace them takes maybe 15 minutes if your careful and follow directions.
I bought led replacement bubs for mine from www.autolumination.com. I ended up ordering part number Neowedge SMT Led , Color: Green , Lens: Type C Led. Got them shipped to me for less than $10 for two. They are bit hard to find on their web page.
I did find that I needed to shave the plastic on the locking tab slightly to get them to lock into the circuit board. Good news is it's unlikely I'll ever have to replace them again.
To start the process remove two black screws (9/32 socket) underneath above the storage area.
|From the bottom carefully pull the whole panel away from the dash. There are three clips on each side and a tab at the top that holds the panel in.|
|Once it's free from the dash carefully remove the three electrical connectors that plug into the heater control module. After that it's much easier to get behind the heater control panel to see your way around. |
Each connector has a locking tab, so take your time.
|View showing the three electrical blocks removed from the digital heater / AC control.|
|Another view with the three top connectors removed. If you want to you can remove the other electrical connectors and remove the heater / AC panel from the car. |
You don't have to remove it, but it may make it easier to work on.
|There are 4 screws that hold a cover over the heater control circuit board. I removed them for easier access to the light bulbs. Technically there are access holes in the back, but I found it hard to get the bulbs in and out, if you didn't just remove the cover.|
|In this shot you can see the access bulb holes, but they are buried pretty deep in.|
|Here are the screws partially removed.|
|Be careful, once the back panel is off. That back panel holds all the buttons and circuit board in place. With it removed a lot of little parts can move around. Here you can see the two grey bulb bases on the circuit board.|
|Another shot - perhaps a little clearer.|
|I used a standard screwdriver to twist the bulbs about 1/8 of a turn counterclockwise. They kinda click in and out of place. I then got my fingernail underneath them and pried them up.|
|Here's a view of the old incandescent green bulb that was burned out. You can see the locking tab and contacts in the picture here. It's looks blue, but trust me it was green when it lit up. |
I believe the Dodge part number for the bulbs is part # 5019519-AA.
|Here are the replacement green led bulbs. They look white, but they do light up a very bright green. |
I bought led replacement bubs for mine from www.autolumination.com. I ended up ordering part number Neowedge SMT Led , Color: Green , Lens: Type C Led. Got them quickly shipped to me for less than $10 ($3.49 each) for two. They are bit hard to find on their web page.
I did find that I needed to shave the plastic on the locking tab slightly to get them to lock into the circuit board. I used a small file to make the gap between the base and the tab a little larger. Make sure when they are twisted in, that the contacts touch the circuit board. I did find that you could turn them too far. Good news is it's unlikely I'll ever have to replace them again.
They also sell a standard bulb that looks like it would work also. Neowedge
79609-S5A-003 Incandescent , Color: Green , Lens: Type C (T5). They were just $1.49 each.
|If you remove all wires -here is what the heater panel looks like out of the car.|
|View of the Dodge Durango heater control from the back. This is removed completely from the Durango.|
|To reinstall just reverse the steps: |
|Here's what it looks like with the led lights installed. My Dodge Durango heater lights will be visible through the life of my Durango now.|