50" Samsung DLP HL-P5063W with 3 Flashing Lights on Front
My broken 50" Samsung DLP HL-P5063W has 3 flashing lights (Timer, Lamp, and Stand By/Temp) on the front of it. There is no picture. It tries to start up 3 times and then just has the three flashing lights. Here is my YouTube video of what my exactly what DLP was doing:
Many people talked about a loud squealing noise when the color wheel goes bad -although as you can hear in the video -there is some noise there, but it's not really loud. It sounds like the color wheel never gets up to speed -and you could feel pretty significant vibration in the DLP chassis when it was trying to start up.
Many people talked about a loud squealing noise when the color wheel goes bad -although as you can hear in the video -there is some noise there, but it's not really loud. It sounds like the color wheel never gets up to speed -and you could feel pretty significant vibration in the DLP chassis when it was trying to start up.
1. I replaced the lamp (from Amazon) Samsung Replacement Lamp with Housing for Samsung DLP TV
2. Then the Samsung BP47-00037A Lamp Ballast / Driver | BP47-00033A BP47-00029A ballast from Discount Merchant (http://www.discount-merchant.com/p-146818-samsung-bp47-00037a-lamp-ballast-driver-bp47-00033a-bp47-00029a-bp47-00029a-1-468-927-12.aspx or Amazon - Samsung BP47-00037A PCB, Ballast, Lamp, EUC132DP/41).
Both the lamp and the ballast are easy replacements if you don't mind unscrewing the back of your DLP and removing a couple cables. Unfortunately neither were my issue this time.
The process getting to and replacing the color wheel takes about 20 minutes. It can be a DIY project. I used the guided instructions provided by the fix your DLP website (FixYourDLP.com Samsung Color Wheel Instructions). As long as you comfortable with screws and computer connectors -it's not a big deal.
2. Then the Samsung BP47-00037A Lamp Ballast / Driver | BP47-00033A BP47-00029A ballast from Discount Merchant (http://www.discount-merchant.com/p-146818-samsung-bp47-00037a-lamp-ballast-driver-bp47-00033a-bp47-00029a-bp47-00029a-1-468-927-12.aspx or Amazon - Samsung BP47-00037A PCB, Ballast, Lamp, EUC132DP/41).
Both the lamp and the ballast are easy replacements if you don't mind unscrewing the back of your DLP and removing a couple cables. Unfortunately neither were my issue this time.
3. Ultimately it ended up being the color wheel that was the issue on my DLP. I purchased the replacement from Discount Merchant. http://www.discount-merchant.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Samsung-BP96-00674A-CW-ENC
The process getting to and replacing the color wheel takes about 20 minutes. It can be a DIY project. I used the guided instructions provided by the fix your DLP website (FixYourDLP.com Samsung Color Wheel Instructions). As long as you comfortable with screws and computer connectors -it's not a big deal.
Here is the picture of my color wheel after I extracted it from my DLP. The bottom of the housing was filled with the missing glass. It was very obvious once I got to it that it had failed. Almost 1/2 of the color wheel is missing in these photos. Now I know where the vibration was coming from. If this off balance wheel was trying to spin up to 9000 RPM -that would make for some nasty vibration.
I did make one mistake and placed the ribbon cable in backwards (didn't work when first powered up). This picture below from the guide clearly shows the ribbon cable silver side out:
General feeling from the family is that the Samsung DLP looks as good if not better than brand new (set is about 6 years old). The picture seems much brighter and vibrant. I now have a spare lamp and ballast for the next time it has issues. Hope this helps someone out!
UPDATE 1/6/2013:
After replacing the color wheel myself, we noticed green cast showing up in what should be black shadows on the TV. We lived with it, because some people online suggested that the analog board may be going bad on the DLP.
UPDATE 1/6/2013:
After replacing the color wheel myself, we noticed green cast showing up in what should be black shadows on the TV. We lived with it, because some people online suggested that the analog board may be going bad on the DLP.
Turns out by adjusting the "Index Delay" in the service menu I was able to get my picture completely black again (no green cast in the shadows). Here's the process I followed:
1. Turn the TV off
2. Press "Mute"-> "1"-> "8"->"2" "Power" on the remote to tun the DLP on in service mode (you can do lots of bad things here -be careful)
3. Highlight the first menu option "DDP1011" using the up and down arrows - select using the left or right arrow
4. Highlight the "Index Delay" option using the up or down arrows - select using the left or right arrow
5. Now the index delay screen was visible with a red bar at the bottom (I wrote down my current value (46 in my case). I used the left and right arrows to select the minimum of red range. From where it looked Magenta (24) to where it stopped looking red (48). The service manual said to then use the mean (or average) of the two values ((48-24)/2+24=36). I moved the left and right arrows until the value read 36.
6. Turned the power off
Restarted the TV and my green cast in black shadows was gone. Awesome. Hope this helps someone else out.
UPDATE 6/6/2014:
I ended up with the three flashing lights, but no wierd sounds. The TV was acidently left on for awhile - perhaps 12 hours The TV wouldn't respond to the front power button or the remote. I just unplugged it and let it sit overnight. The next day it fired up like normal. We'll see - it may nee another bulb replacement (http://blog.trebacz.com/2009/12/quick-replacement-of-bp96-00826ap-bulb.html) after five years.
1. Turn the TV off
2. Press "Mute"-> "1"-> "8"->"2" "Power" on the remote to tun the DLP on in service mode (you can do lots of bad things here -be careful)
3. Highlight the first menu option "DDP1011" using the up and down arrows - select using the left or right arrow
4. Highlight the "Index Delay" option using the up or down arrows - select using the left or right arrow
5. Now the index delay screen was visible with a red bar at the bottom (I wrote down my current value (46 in my case). I used the left and right arrows to select the minimum of red range. From where it looked Magenta (24) to where it stopped looking red (48). The service manual said to then use the mean (or average) of the two values ((48-24)/2+24=36). I moved the left and right arrows until the value read 36.
6. Turned the power off
Restarted the TV and my green cast in black shadows was gone. Awesome. Hope this helps someone else out.
UPDATE 6/6/2014:
I ended up with the three flashing lights, but no wierd sounds. The TV was acidently left on for awhile - perhaps 12 hours The TV wouldn't respond to the front power button or the remote. I just unplugged it and let it sit overnight. The next day it fired up like normal. We'll see - it may nee another bulb replacement (http://blog.trebacz.com/2009/12/quick-replacement-of-bp96-00826ap-bulb.html) after five years.
If you take the time to learn to how to replace your dlp lamp then you can save yourself a lot of money by fixing your old TV and not buying a new one. I highly recommend this to anyone who thinks their samsung tv may have died.
ReplyDeletei watched this video. i like it,its very amazing video. i like this product very nice look n small size. this lamp can be used through digital ballast.
ReplyDeleteDigital ballasts
I spent several hours replacing both the color wheel and lamp in my DLP TV, but it didn't work. Then I found this site and saw the note about which way the ribbon is supposed to go in ... so I took the TV apart again and discovered that I had put it in backwards. Switched it, and now my TV is WORKING. Thank you very much for this page!
ReplyDeleteMy husband used your YouTube video to replace our color wheel. THANK YOU...he would not have been able to work it out himself - I truly appreciate your putting this out there. Our 10 year old Tele is working great..we bought the colorwheel on Amazon for $113...beats the heck out of buying a new 50 inch or higher. Thank you again...
ReplyDeleteGlad it helped you out. Always like to save somebody some money and keep an otherwise useful TV from going into a landfill.
ReplyDeleteThanks. I have the same issue with an almost 8 year old hlp5663w. I replaced the bulb becasue the 3 lights were blinking. It still doesnt work. I have the buzzing sound. I went on live chat with Samsung after installing the new bulb and they want to refer you to the service people. They told me the colorwheel would not help me but I'm going to order one anyway and try it.
ReplyDeleteBill
I replaced the colorwheel and it works like new. You could hear the grinding on the old colorwheel. Samsung customer srvice said that my issue could not be related to the colorwheel. Thank you very much.
ReplyDeleteGlad I could help you out. Nice to know that replacing a part can beath new life into an old DLP. Ours is still going strong after our color wheel replacement.
ReplyDeleteWhat were the symptoms that told you the color wheel was bad? Did the TV just not start up one day or where there symptoms leading up to the final failure?
ReplyDeleteAsking because ours is 5-6 years old and is just now beginning to turn itself off randomly. If we wait a couple of seconds we can turn it back on with the remote.
Trying to determine if this is a lamp beginning to fail or something more sinister.
Thanks for your writeup.
I also have a Samsung HL-P5063W - I replaced the bulb and it worked sporadically for a few weeks then quit on me (for good this time?) - when it powers on i here the initial click but nothing else, it used to do 'click click click' but now nothing. I don't hear any rough whining sound, just a soft whir .. so I assume its the ballast. Anyway, I pulled out the ballast then compared it to the photo in your link above on Discount Merchant and they look slight different? Did yours look slightly different when you replaced the ballast? Don't want to shell out 50 bucks for the wrong part (guess it could still be wrong, wish there was some true diagnostics on these TVs). Thanks for the info page!
ReplyDeleteI remember no difference in the look of the ballast. Perhaps some capacitors were a different color but the general layout of the board was the same. Glad the info is helping diagnose your issue...
Deletethis is great info to followup on. Been having the same problems.
ReplyDeleteI received an email from a person who stated the following and it repaired his system.
Reset the lamp hour meter worked for him. Here's how.
Begin with the TV powered OFF.
Point your remote towards your TV.
Press
Mute 1 8 2 Power. Buttons pressed consecutively but as fast as you can and not at the same time.
Your TV set should now say Loading Factory
Browse down to Option Then press Enter
Note: The Mute 1 8 2 buttons need to be pressed down consecutively and fairly quickly. If you TV does not enter the service menu after using this combination, you can substitute Menu instead of Mute.
To exit the menu, hit press exit button or just turn off set.
Hope it can help someone.
Good luck
I watched this video as well and we replaced the color wheel. It is now working but the colors are messed up. It has that "3-D" effect look. We dont have the original remote and cant get to the "service menu"? We get the regular menu and tried to fine tune the color, but it didnt help one bit. Its still watchable but.....
ReplyDeleteDoes anyone know how to fix the color?
First thing to try is resoldering convergence chip pins. Mark all wires connecting convergence board to the set, then remove the board. The chips are large, with 16 pins each. Heat/cool cycles cause solder cracks around the pins..you may need a magnifying glass to see them. A fine-tipped soldering pencil on low heat will let you re-melt the connections. This restored my 43" set to like-new picture from severe bowing 3D effect. If it doesn't work, the chips and/or resistors may be bad.
DeleteThanks. Ive got a repair man coming in a bit to fix it. Ill let him know that as well.
DeleteOk he had a service remote which brought him to a different menu. He then changed a bunch of setting and it looks like its brand new!
ReplyDeleteSo, where does one get a service remote or get to that menu?
Jack Asselin (November 9th post) above gives you the information to get into the DLP's service menu. It sounds like your technician may have recalibrated your DLP. If you no longer have your OEM remote you can typically get a replacement original remote on ebay for about $20. I bought one on ebay for one out dog chewed up a few years ago.
DeleteIm having the same three lights issue. I can hear noise from the color wheel. It must have a failsafe to keep the lamp from firing if it makes noise or vibrates. Guess ill try the xolorwheel. Hope it works on mine. Thanks
ReplyDeleteMy 46" tv quit turning on one morning. When I plug it in, the lamp light flashes. It clicks, then starts flashing again. After the 3 cycles I get the three flashing lights. Once in a great while it would turn on, then shut off after 2 minutes. I replaced the lamp and ballast. I used genuine Samsung/Phillips parts. Didn't fix anything. Then I replaced color wheel. Genuine Samsung. Still nothing. Any ideas? Disgusted that with what I spent I would be half way to a new TV. Any market for my parts?
ReplyDeleteHello everyone. Is there a way to tell if it is the lamp and or color wheel without replacing both? Mine turns on, makes the jingle, then the right hand flashes on and off and I hear whirring, then it eventually shuts off.
ReplyDeleteThoughts?
I changed my color wheel on my 46 in dlp, everything worked fine for a week and now shuts down with the same 3 lights, sometimes stays on and other times turns back off, did I do something wrong. also do you have to hold the mute button, I cant get the service menu to pop up. thank you
ReplyDeleteis this the same as a Samsung 55 inch TV? My friend has given me a one and well he replaced the color wheel but now it is just a Big Blue screen. With No controls on the screen
ReplyDeleteMy tv has two lights flashing and won't turn on
ReplyDeleteHLP 5063w we purchased in 2005. Since then, replaced the bulb twice (OEM) and color wheel. Was working fine a week ago and suddenly stopped. Replaced the ballast but no joy.
ReplyDeleteI get the try once, click, no whines or vibrations. fan comes on and green light in light engine lights. 2nd try, click. Same thing. Third try, click, whir up as if it's going to turn on but nothing and then it's the 3 lights.
Can you help
One other note to my earlier post. Last night the TV inexplicably fired up. The bulb came on and stayed on but I had no control from any remote on the TV. the blue door switch was up but the TV stayed on. The picture was dim but the colors were fine. No sound. With that in mind, I don't think it's the color wheel.
ReplyDeleteThoughts?
Mr. Trebacz I'm trying to fix my tv now. What does it mean when the temp light is red but the timer and lamp lights are green. What needs to be fixed. I just put the new lamp in today.
ReplyDelete